Sunday lunch in France is the main meal of the week and many cafes are now offering a specific brunch menu. To me, that meant a long, lazy, enjoyable meal.
I made my first trip up to the 9th where I found the much beloved Rose Bakery. I couldn't have felt more at home in a restaurant that is located over 5,000 miles from my home. One could easily pick up this entire operation and drop it in either San Francisco or Oakland with complete and total ease. It reminded me so much of home and the meal was so delicious, I plan to return again before I fly back to the Bay Area.
September 29, 2009
September 28, 2009
Samedi – 26 septembre 2009 (part two)
my Saturday pre-Hidden Kitchen was filled with a trip to the beautiful Marche du President Wilson of which I have some beautiful pictures. I will save those for a separate post when I get the time. For now, I will share on my mid-day meal at Breizh Cafe.
I took a short walk from my apartment up the rue Vieille du Temple through the beginning of the trendy part of the Marais filled with designer boutiques and upscale apartments. You would think that a late lunch and table for one would be an easy order but upon arrival, I was told that the next opening wouldn't be until 3pm which was about 20 minutes later. Not too bad, so I crossed the street and relaxed in a small park until my time arrived.
I took a short walk from my apartment up the rue Vieille du Temple through the beginning of the trendy part of the Marais filled with designer boutiques and upscale apartments. You would think that a late lunch and table for one would be an easy order but upon arrival, I was told that the next opening wouldn't be until 3pm which was about 20 minutes later. Not too bad, so I crossed the street and relaxed in a small park until my time arrived.
September 27, 2009
vendredi - 25 septembre
I'll be up front about my day Friday - not much food worthy to report. I spent most of the day being a tourist and as such wasn't afforded the opportunity to include big food highlights during the day.
At the recommendation of a friend back in SF, I signed up before I came for a bike tour of Paris offered by Fat Tire (yes, the beer of New Belgium brewery & Colorado fame). Karen said that when she was working as a travel advisor they recommended the tour to people often and had heard good feedback as well.
The tour met up under the Eiffel Tower and I have to admit that seeing this site in person is amazing. There are huge crowds but obviously it is a must-do when in Paris. The bike tour left from near the tower and went winding through parks, neighborhoods, bike lines and traffic to weave throughout central Paris. The highlights were: Ecole Militaire, the dome church (contains the tomb of Napoleon Bonaparte), Les Invalides, a very cool art nouveau bridge over the Seine, Place de la Concorde, a cafe lunch stop inside the Tuileries garden, the back side of the Louvre, and then we looped back past several other museums and sites ending up once again beneath the tower.
Later in the day, I went to the top of the tower. The first two levels by stairs which was probably not the best idea after biking all morning. The views from all three levels are spectacular. Below are pictures from throughout the day -
click the 'Read more' to see photos!
At the recommendation of a friend back in SF, I signed up before I came for a bike tour of Paris offered by Fat Tire (yes, the beer of New Belgium brewery & Colorado fame). Karen said that when she was working as a travel advisor they recommended the tour to people often and had heard good feedback as well.
The tour met up under the Eiffel Tower and I have to admit that seeing this site in person is amazing. There are huge crowds but obviously it is a must-do when in Paris. The bike tour left from near the tower and went winding through parks, neighborhoods, bike lines and traffic to weave throughout central Paris. The highlights were: Ecole Militaire, the dome church (contains the tomb of Napoleon Bonaparte), Les Invalides, a very cool art nouveau bridge over the Seine, Place de la Concorde, a cafe lunch stop inside the Tuileries garden, the back side of the Louvre, and then we looped back past several other museums and sites ending up once again beneath the tower.
Later in the day, I went to the top of the tower. The first two levels by stairs which was probably not the best idea after biking all morning. The views from all three levels are spectacular. Below are pictures from throughout the day -
click the 'Read more' to see photos!
September 26, 2009
Samedi – 26 septembre 2009 (part one)
I’m going to skip ahead and post about today ahead of Friday because I’m SO excited about my experience tonight. There are no photos – just my thoughts.
I can’t remember exactly where I read about Hidden Kitchen, but it is essentially a private dinner club held in a private apartment home of two Americans living in Paris. The meal consists of ten courses, each paired with wine as well as a drink upon arrival. Laura & Braden host about 15 individuals in their home (which is an amazing apartment near the Louvre) and the crowd is mixed with both locals and visitors so the guests come from varied walks of life and this makes for a mixed bag.
I’ll sum up the experience in a few short words: this was an extremely memorable meal and an entirely unique experience, which I doubt, will be replicated again during my trip.
Braden is the chef du cuisine and Laura acts as both host & as pastry chef. Nikki helps as server and friendly face throughout the evening. The kitchen this all comes out of is fairly standard. Nothing sprawling or professional grade, however, since both consult for William-Sonoma the kitchen is certainly well-stocked. Both of the chefs are completely self-trained. No Le Courdon Bleu training here. As one guest put it, the meal beat out (by far) a 10 course tasting menu she enjoyed recently at a Michelin one star restaurant in France.
Upon arrival, Laura poured glasses of champagne with pomegranate seeds (in this case a light pink color as is often the case here).
The rest of the menu is as follows:
- amuse: green anise flavored doughnut with an apple cider granita
- roasted chicken broth with chicken liver ravioli
- fig and anchovy (deconstructed) tart with mixed herb salad
- mascarpone polenta with mushrooms, candied turnips and braised radicchio
- sautéed see bass with house-made Mexican chorizo stuffed mussels, garlic and lime
- cleanser: HK version of a mint julep – base of bourbon jello, frozen concoction & fresh mint
- pork belly with walnut-celery root puree with spinach and pickled red chilies
- shaved Brussels sprouts salad
- upside-down plum cake with chai ice cream and gruyere crumble
- petites fours: including rice crispy treat, soft peanut brittle, chocolate truffle & other brittle type treat
Laura also posed as sommelier pairing each course with a wine of its own which means a significant amount of wine! Lots of French whites early in the meal and moving into richer reds later in the meal. We finished our petites fours with fresh drawn espresso.
Clearly it would be great to dine here about ten more times before I depart but it isn’t likely. Regardless, if you come to Paris and for certain when I come back, I’ll get on the list again!
Find them here:
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http://www.hkmenus.com
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I can’t remember exactly where I read about Hidden Kitchen, but it is essentially a private dinner club held in a private apartment home of two Americans living in Paris. The meal consists of ten courses, each paired with wine as well as a drink upon arrival. Laura & Braden host about 15 individuals in their home (which is an amazing apartment near the Louvre) and the crowd is mixed with both locals and visitors so the guests come from varied walks of life and this makes for a mixed bag.
I’ll sum up the experience in a few short words: this was an extremely memorable meal and an entirely unique experience, which I doubt, will be replicated again during my trip.
Braden is the chef du cuisine and Laura acts as both host & as pastry chef. Nikki helps as server and friendly face throughout the evening. The kitchen this all comes out of is fairly standard. Nothing sprawling or professional grade, however, since both consult for William-Sonoma the kitchen is certainly well-stocked. Both of the chefs are completely self-trained. No Le Courdon Bleu training here. As one guest put it, the meal beat out (by far) a 10 course tasting menu she enjoyed recently at a Michelin one star restaurant in France.
Upon arrival, Laura poured glasses of champagne with pomegranate seeds (in this case a light pink color as is often the case here).
The rest of the menu is as follows:
- amuse: green anise flavored doughnut with an apple cider granita
- roasted chicken broth with chicken liver ravioli
- fig and anchovy (deconstructed) tart with mixed herb salad
- mascarpone polenta with mushrooms, candied turnips and braised radicchio
- sautéed see bass with house-made Mexican chorizo stuffed mussels, garlic and lime
- cleanser: HK version of a mint julep – base of bourbon jello, frozen concoction & fresh mint
- pork belly with walnut-celery root puree with spinach and pickled red chilies
- shaved Brussels sprouts salad
- upside-down plum cake with chai ice cream and gruyere crumble
- petites fours: including rice crispy treat, soft peanut brittle, chocolate truffle & other brittle type treat
Laura also posed as sommelier pairing each course with a wine of its own which means a significant amount of wine! Lots of French whites early in the meal and moving into richer reds later in the meal. We finished our petites fours with fresh drawn espresso.
Clearly it would be great to dine here about ten more times before I depart but it isn’t likely. Regardless, if you come to Paris and for certain when I come back, I’ll get on the list again!
Find them here:
http://www.hkmenus.com
September 25, 2009
Jeudi - 24 septembre 2009
I have taken much advice for this trip on both food related interests and on being an American in Paris from the wise and witty David Lebovitz. His style of writing – both via blog and in his recent book The Sweet Life in Paris is very honest and funny. At mention on his blog, he pointed to his version of the best croissant in Paris. Of course, I had to seek out and try, right?
Well, I did on Thursday morning (before 11am just as David recommends). I took myself to the Bastille neighborhood to find Au Levain du Marais or what is possibly also known as Boulangerie Patisserie Beaumarchais. The storefront was adorable, but most unassuming. Sitting along a main street in a heavily residential area, there was nothing flashy, no long lines of tourists and nothing that would have otherwise drawn me in had I not known better.
(note: this is the only picture of the croissant taken before I devoured it!)
This croissant was perhaps the most delicious piece of pastry EVER. It was a good thing I ordered my two pastries and then walked out because I could have easily eaten 2 or 3 in one sitting! The simplicity of the pasty was really what made is so good. The plain croissant du beurre was even better than the pain du chocolat. Maybe this makes me a purist, but the simple won me over.
I will be back again during my stay, possibly more than once just to enjoy a few more.
That same morning, post-life-changing pastry time, I ventured into my first marché or outdoor market at the Marché Bastille, one of Paris’ largest. I won’t try to play it off like this was an easy experience. I am in no way a French speaker and though I did my best to take as many audio lessons from Pimselur before the trip, it just doesn’t really cross over enough to make me feel fully comfortable in a setting like a market. Back in Oakland, I shop at farmer’s markets weekly and never have in-depth conversations with the farmers or vendors, but enough to ask about a product or ask for recommendations. Now I am saddled with that not being an option and in this market the stand vendors are very vocal!
I’m happy to report that despite my communication difficulties, I did make several purchases and got away without any major hitches.
So tomorrow (Saturday) I’ll be venturing into two new markets to see what there is to see and hopefully to make a purchase or two.
September 23, 2009
first day!
I made it! I landed at CDG airport in Paris around 12:30pm local time today and by 3pm I was sitting in my temporary home for the next two weeks - a cute 1 bedroom apartment in the Marais near Hotel de Ville.
After a bit of relaxation - but no nap per my jet lag strategy - I ventured out after planning to hit up 3 must eat places of the more casual style.
L'As du Fallafel. typical of my recent eating habits - I went straight for the street food.
I then meandered down to the Seine and crossed over on to Ile St-Louis to find the famed Berthillon ice cream. I had one scoop of the extra dark cacao and one scoop of almond on a cone - divine!
Lastly, I crossed the Seine again on to the left bank to hunt down a baguette from Eric Kayser's boulangerie. Unable to just buy one lonely baguette, I also bought some of their rich caneles. While on the left bank, I also stopped in this cute little organic store (known here as a bio store) and picked up some pears and yogurt for the morning.
bonsoir!
September 21, 2009
the night before
my packing is about 95% complete. everything that can be packed tonight is packed.
tomorrow mid-morning i head for SFO to fly to NY JFK and then on to CDG. i touch down in Paris at about 12:30pm local time on wednesday.
off to go download an app or two for my iPhone and perhaps some podcasts to keep me entertained during my flights. and then to bed - hopefully i can sleep.
bon voyage!
tomorrow mid-morning i head for SFO to fly to NY JFK and then on to CDG. i touch down in Paris at about 12:30pm local time on wednesday.
off to go download an app or two for my iPhone and perhaps some podcasts to keep me entertained during my flights. and then to bed - hopefully i can sleep.
bon voyage!
September 11, 2009
rough draft
this is a rough draft of a new idea I have about food blogging. my upcoming trip to Paris is, for me, a starting point and I decided that I might as well start this now so I have some place to post things during my trip as well as future efforts when I return back home to Oakland.
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